• allows you to quickly compare a point on the diagram and on the outline,
• avoid mistakes when embroidering by color,
• avoid “surprises” with a lack of canvas closer to the end of the work.

However, a difficulty always arises - how to make markings so that everything can be washed and washed, so that months of labor are not wasted.
There are several markup methods:

1. Ready-made (factory) lined canvas

The first way out of the situation is to buy an already marked factory canvas. It comes in three types:
- canvas marked with threads (fishing line);

This marking is carefully pulled out when the work is completely ready. To remove the thread (line), you need to carefully pry the thread (line) with tweezers. Then wrap the thread (fishing line) around the tweezers 3 times to secure it. Then pull it smoothly, with little effort, and the thread (line) is removed from the canvas.
- canvas with disappearing markings (markings are applied with special paint).

Factory markings disappear when soaked in cold water. However, you need to remember that such fabric cannot be ironed without washing off the markings.
- canvas with indelible markings.

If you are planning a process with continuous stitching, you can purchase canvas with indelible markings. This marking is sewn up with thread and remains inside under the embroidery.

2. Using markers

Fabric markers The canvas marking tool is very easy to use and saves a lot of time, but it has one drawback - the marker may simply not disappear from the fabric when washed. Modern stores (online stores) offer a wide variety of special markers (these are what most needlewomen use).
No matter what marker we use to make markings, we always need to remember:
- you cannot iron marked embroidery;
- you can’t leave it in the sun;
- you cannot use markers on dyed fabrics; the marker may react with the paint and leave permanent marks on the embroidery.

So, first of all, I recommend buying high-quality markers from trusted manufacturers, and even better - ones that have been tested in their work by your fellow embroiderers. In any case, no matter what marker you use, follow the mandatory rule: read the instructions carefully and test on the fabric on which you are going to apply for marking, you can purchase:

Markers and pencils

1. Self-disappearing marker

Self-disappearing marker- one of the most popular markers for marking fabric. I'm sure that most embroiderers already have at least one such marker.
A self-disappearing marker is a marker that disappears within a few hours after application. The disappearance period must be indicated in the instructions. Typically from 12 hours to two days. They come in different colors, but the most common are blue, pink, purple and white (for dark fabrics).
Each disappearing marker is supplied with instructions with recommendations for its use and application. Difficulties usually arise when using a marker on a self-painted or colored canvas. In addition, it happens that the marker reacts with the glue if the glue is used when designing embroidery. At the same time, light stripes appear on the fabric, so be careful when using a marker.
Sometimes disappearing ink becomes invisible too quickly. If you are going to embroider a large piece of work and mark with a disappearing marker, then you should not mark all the embroidery in advance, because... Markings may disappear over time, mark only the desired area. Such markers are not convenient for so-called “long-term projects” - embroideries that take weeks, months, and even years. But they are very convenient for small embroideries; biscorn, bookmarks and other little things.
The downside to these markers is that they tend to dry out very quickly. Therefore, it would be good to have a backup marker.

I use this self-disappearing marker and am very pleased with it. The instructions said that it disappears in 48 hours. However, I made a small discovery: the more times you circle the drawn line, the longer the marking will last.

2.Water soluble marker

	Water soluble markers This marker makes lines of varying widths that can be removed with cold water. They are easy to use and markings are applied quickly. It also removes quickly. It stays on fabric for a week, a month, and a year. However, markers also have an expiration date. Therefore, it’s still not worth leaving the markings for a long time. There is a risk that the markings will not come off.
	Water-soluble markers can be double-sided. The sides may differ in rod thickness or color.

There are also double-sided markers with a corrector, the second side of which is designed to remove markings manually, without wetting the entire fabric.

3. Water-soluble pencils

Water-soluble pencils allow you to draw a thin line on the fabric and the lines can be easily removed with water or a damp cloth. They come in different colors. In order to draw a line, you need to press firmly on the pencil. But such a pencil has two disadvantages: the line does not turn out thin, as for example when marking with a marker, and therefore, you can sometimes get confused and not understand where it goes, and the second disadvantage is that the pencil constantly needs to be sharpened.

Marking pencils may have a special brush at the other end of the pencil. Marked lines can be easily removed using this brush.

4. Gel cores for canvas

Nowadays they have gained particular popularity gel rods for marking (they look just like gel pen refills and have a very attractive price; it’s also convenient that they have enough colors) I bought these refills for just five rubles. The color range of the rods is varied. With these rods you can create very fine and precise lines. The lines practically do not spread. Gel sticks are water-soluble, so unwanted lines can be easily removed with a damp cloth. At the end of the process, when you need to remove the markings completely, you need to immerse the embroidery in water for just a few minutes.

I didn’t really believe that the rods would help, so I conducted an experiment. In the first photo I drew on a uniform, in the second photo the usual 14th Aida.

And these photos were taken after I held the fabrics under running cold water for about five minutes (I did not soak them). As you can see, the rods did not fail.

There are among us who like to mark with a regular silver gel pen, so far I have heard only good reviews.

5. Wax crayons

6. Simple lead pencil

Simple pencil has a graphite lead and writes in gray with shades from light to almost black (depending on the hardness of the graphite). There is a special category of embroiderers who use a simple slate pencil for marking. However, remember - not every such pencil washes well (but not every marker washes off easily and effortlessly, so why pay more?). Once I had to make markings with a simple pencil, since the area was sewn up with dark threads, so I didn’t worry, but when I moved on to a lighter area, I decided not to risk it and nevertheless erased the pencil markings with a regular eraser.

I would also like to focus on the water pencil. Typically, such a pencil comes with spare tips.

It is used for temporary marking; you can also use a pencil to remove marks from water-disappearing markers, and you can also spot remove dirt from clothing by adding a stain remover to the water.

You can see more about this water pencil VIDEO.

Chalk

1. Wax crayons

Wax crayons(tailor's wax) is intended for drawing lines on fabric when marking. Tailor's wax chalk has a convenient triangular shape with a recess for your finger and rounded edges, which prevents crumbling even at the first touch to the fabric. It's nice and comfortable to hold in your hands. Chalk is intended for long-term contour application.

Many needlewomen consider these wax crayons to be a godsend. They leave a thin, neat line. The line is clear and does not crumble. They do not disappear from the fabric - no matter how much you twist the fabric, the lines will remain in place. They may become a little paler, but will still be clearly visible. This wax does not stain your hands, leaves a thin bright line, you do not need to press hard and run over the same place several times to get a good contour.
Wax crayons have a number of advantages: high hygienic properties; they do not stain your hands, have increased strength and moisture resistance, which allows transportation to almost any distance in various climatic conditions without loss of quality of wax crayons. However, it should be remembered that with prolonged exposure to elevated temperatures, the chalk softens and significantly loses its properties.
The only downside is that if there is an error in the marking, you have to carefully erase the line with a brush. And after ironing, even a brush will not help, only washing, because... the wax melts and is imprinted into the fabric. But after washing there are no traces left.
Wax crayons come in different colors, which is convenient for working with light and dark fabrics. And the shape can be different, choose what is more convenient.

2. Tailor's chalk

Since time immemorial, needlewomen have used tailor's chalk to mark fabric. Chalk is a natural, completely harmless remedy; it is absolutely harmless to human health, and its application in no way can damage the structure of the fabric or disrupt the chemical composition of the paint on the fabric. The powdery structure of the chalk line is easily removed after the job is done. Subsequent removal of marking lines is carried out by mechanical removal of chalk from the fabric.
Chalk is available in rectangular and triangular shapes. Chalk tailor's chalks come in white, blue, green, pink and yellow.

The classic version of tailor's chalk comes in a convenient, modern form. The special refined shape allows you to apply fairly thin and clear contours using this chalk.

It is worth noting that when stored in a damp room, chalk crayons partially absorb moisture, which also impairs the removability of marking lines. The same negative effect can be caused by the crayon becoming oily when handled with dirty or sweaty hands. It is not allowed to store chalk crayons under the influence of direct sunlight and on tables under incandescent lamps; this causes the chalk to dry out and during operation it becomes brittle and hard, which leads to the appearance of crumbs and deformations at the marking site and deterioration in removability.
In order to smooth out the negative qualities of chalk, various options for producing tailor's chalk have been invented. You can choose a chalk to suit every taste and need.

3. Crayons in a “plastic jacket”

Chalk in a “plastic jacket” is a piece of chalk in a special holder. The plastic case in which the chalk is located protects your hands from contamination. There is a sharpener on the holder cover, which will always allow you to get a thin, neat line.

4. Chalk wheel

IN chalk wheel crushed chalk is used, otherwise called powder chalk (powder chalk), which is placed in a special transparent plastic container. The container with chalk is attached to a plastic body. Chalk - powder in a container - is a very convenient option for applying chalk markings. Always clean hands! No greasy marks! Very thin and clear mark! Aesthetics and convenience - all the delights in one small convenient container!

For ease of transportation, the transparent plastic container is equipped with a safety lock. Before starting work, you must remove the fuse and pour the chalk into the plastic case. The chalk container is replaceable. Spare blocks are available for sale that can be replaced when the chalk runs out.
To evenly distribute chalk on the surface of the material, a simple mechanism is provided - an adjusting wheel with teeth. Thanks to this wheel, the chalk does not just pour out, but is distributed in a thin, clear line.

There is a wheel at the tip of the pencil, with the help of it and chalk (inside the pencil) a thin line is drawn on the fabric. The chalk cartridge can be changed; stores sell special replacement cartridges.

Inside the rod there is chalk powder. I wonder how long one such block will last?

At the end there is a small gear wheel, and the chalk flows through it. The line turns out thin, clear, the chalk does not stain your hands, you do not need to constantly sharpen the chalk, you draw easily and without pressure.

VIDEO

A pencil-shaped wheel is also available for sale. It is designed for drawing lines on fabric, equipped with a thin toothed wheel and a replaceable cartridge with chalk powder.
A comfortable handle made of soft material with a special recess for the index finger allows you to work comfortably without overstraining your muscles.

You can see more about this chalk wheel VIDEO

5. Self-disappearing chalk

6. Chalk sticks

For marking, you can also use ordinary chalk sticks. Everyone is familiar with these chalk sticks from school. We wrote on the boards with them, and our children write with them. The fact is that they are comfortable and the safest, no matter what new products appear. Of course, not all chalk is good. One chalk crumbles, turning into dust; the other scratches the board, the third is practically invisible on the board, too pale. One of the developments is the appearance of so-called non-crumbling, dust-free crayons.
They are usually made using casein. These are crayons that do not stain hands and clothes; they are made using special technology.

High-quality crayons do not crumble, form a minimum of chalk dust, and have rich colors. To mark the outline, chalk sticks can be sharpened in an ordinary pencil sharpener. The thin tip is much easier to mark. Marking with these crayons has its drawbacks - the markings are quickly erased, and they need to be sharpened often to get a thin line. But they also have advantages - they never leave traces from such markings and they are very cheap.

7. Mechanical pencil with chalk lead

Mechanical pencil with a chalk-based lead, i.e. it is specially designed for fabrics.

Unlike chalk, it does not need to be constantly sharpened. The lead is soft and does not require additional pressure; it draws on almost all fabrics. The line turns out to be thin. Hands remain clean while working with it. The variety of colors allows you to use it on materials of different colors. On the reverse tip of the pencil there is an eraser for erasing chalk. The lines drawn with this pencil can be easily erased with a damp cloth. Very economical consumption of rods. According to reviews on the Internet, the pencil is very comfortable.

Copy paper

In needlework, there are several ways to apply markings to fabric using special copy paper. Copy paper This is a traditional marking and marking device. It comes in a wide selection of colors, allowing you to find exactly the color you need. Copy paper is necessary to transfer cutting lines onto the fabric using special devices. Traces from special copy paper are easily washed off with water. Never use black carbon paper used for office work. Of course, carbon paper, especially dark-colored paper, requires careful handling, otherwise it will leave stains on the fabric. Transfer paper is always placed on the bottom of the fabric.
The question arises: With what tool can we apply lines on fabric using carbon paper? Let's take a closer look at them.

1. Copy wheel (copy roller)

This instrument has been known for a long time, but until recently it was undeservedly forgotten. Copy wheel(copy roller) - a wheel with a toothed (smooth) edge on the handle. The tracing roller allows you to easily and accurately apply lines to fabric. Its previous version had sharp edges that damaged the fabric. The new tool is designed in such a way that it does not damage even the most delicate tissues and at the same time allows for very precise marking through large sheets of special copy paper. But the copier itself cannot transfer marking lines to a symmetrical part. It only works in tandem with carbon paper or chalkboard.
You can come across several names for a copy roller - copier, copy wheel, and even cutter. But the name “cutter” is consonant with the word “to cut.” And we’re not going to cut them yet. Therefore, we will not use this name, so as not to mislead anyone.
It is important to note that the quality of the copy line depends on the copy roller and the pressure applied. Which means it’s time to talk about what types of copiers there are.
Copy wheels are:
-with jagged edge;
-with a smooth edge.

Copy wheels with a serrated edge are used for working with materials with a dense weave and a smooth surface, for example, chintz, calico, and linen. On many materials, gear marks may not be visible. This wheel leaves a dotted or dotted line on the fabric. If the copier has very dull teeth or you press the cutter very hard, the line will be thick and blurry. And very sharp or damaged (bent, burred) teeth can damage thin fabric.

A copy wheel with a smooth edge is used for thin and delicate fabrics. This wheel leaves a continuous line. This type of wheel is used to mark the canvas.
Place the copy paper with the colored side up on the table, place the fabric on the paper and use the wheel to draw the lines that we need.
You can see more about the copy wheel VIDEO.

2. "HERA" marker

3. Transfer paper pen

A pen for marking and copying lines using carbon paper. This pen looks like a regular ballpoint pen, but it does not contain ink. The handle has two ends: plastic and steel. The plastic end is used for drawing wide lines, the steel end is used for drawing thin lines. The plastic tip allows you to create bold, thick lines. And the steel ballpoint tip allows you to trace or make a line without damaging your design or copy paper. The triangular shape of the handle fits comfortably in the hand.

Soap

1. Soap

Even in the time of our grandmothers, and maybe much earlier, soap remnants were used to draw lines on fabric. Soap is the remnant of a bar of soap that has been used a lot. The soap does not crumble in use and leaves a thin, clear line on the fabric, of which no trace remains after washing. The only drawback is that it can slip, warming up in your hands, and dust particles and threads will begin to stick to it. Yes, and you will have to wash your hands several times while working.
To make such a soap, you just need to wait for your toilet soap to lather into a thick soap with thin edges. Then you need to put it in any dry, secluded place (for example, in the corner of a windowsill) and wait a few days until the soap finally dries out and becomes hard. For these purposes, it is better to take toilet soap rather than bath soap. The thinner the soap, the thinner the lines will be, but thin soap breaks very quickly, so you need it to be approximately the same as in the photo. This is not an ideal soap; in order for the strip to be 0.1 cm on the fabric, it needs to be sharpened with scissors.
And it is also important to remember that if the soap contains oils and other moisturizing components, then its soap should not be used when transferring the pattern to fabric, because. Indelible greasy stains may appear.
You can see how to properly sharpen a soap VIDEO.

2. Tailor's soap

Tailor's soap is a ready-made piece of soap. The edges of this soap are already sharpened at an angle. Tailor's soap is produced industrially. Widely used in tailoring and sewing workshops for fabric marking. It is relatively cheap. Environmentally friendly, the soap completely dissolves in water when washing without leaving any traces on the product and does not cause allergies (this is its advantage over chalk).

3. Marking with threads

There is also such a marking method as marking the canvas with threads. You have to stitch if you are working with a canvas that is too small, on which the mark from the marker is not clear enough.

The advantages of such markings include the complete absence of its traces, and the disadvantages are time. Cross stitching large patterns requires a long time of marking, sometimes it can take a couple of evenings.
A canvas at a distance of 10 cells vertically and horizontally. The marking will be even more accurate if you strictly adhere to the stitch length of 5 cells. If you don’t want problems with removing markings, try not to pierce the marking threads.
For marking use:

1. cotton threads;
2. monofilament;
3. water-soluble thread;
4. fishing line

Cotton threads

Monofilament

Water soluble threads

fishing line

In needlework, the most ordinary fishing line is used, which is sold in stores with fishing supplies. Fishing line is an artificial thin strong, most often completely transparent thread. The fishing line can be braided or monofilament (mono-filament). Braided fishing line consists of many small intertwined threads. Braided line is stronger than mono line and has a very low stretch coefficient. Mono fishing line consists of one single thread. The range of its shades is large, but most often sold are white, black and fluorescent: green or yellow. It is very tough, and therefore it is almost impossible to tie knots. But, due to its sliding properties, it is easily removed.

Features of markings on dark-colored canvas

To mark on dark fabric, use markers, pencils, and white threads. There are markers that become visible only some time after application; this, however, slightly complicates the process of applying markings. The markings become visible only after drying. In any case, before marking, you need to carefully read the instructions.
For dark (black) canvas, a silver gel rod is also used. For dark (usually black) fabric, it is better to take a silver-colored rod.

It is convenient to mark the black canvas with soap or chalk and is clearly visible and washes well. Some embroiderers rub chalk or soap on a small fragment of the canvas that they are embroidering at the moment; as a result, the canvas becomes grayish and it is easier to sew on it. True, this method may not be suitable for everyone: some may not like the feeling of soap at their fingertips.
The traditional marking method for light canvas is to sew the canvas with light threads, which will later be removed.
In any case, whether to mark up or not is up to you. The main thing to remember is that markings are useful until you make a mistake in the markings themselves, so when drawing lines you need to be very, very careful. Good luck with your marking!

Translating a pattern onto fabric, especially when sewing clothes, often involves transferring chalk lines from one symmetrical piece to another. But the same thing may be needed when sewing toys.

There are several ways to copy chalk lines. For example, using copy stitches. Or by pins. But I prefer one, the simplest and most accurate, in my opinion - transferring the markings from one part to another with a copy roller on a chalk board or using special copy paper.

The essence of this method is as follows:

1. When cutting paired symmetrical parts, the fabric is folded into 2 layers with the right side inward.

A pattern is placed and pricked on top and all the contours are traced. I talked about what you can use to trace the contours of patterns on fabric in the review “How to transfer patterns onto fabric?”

As a rule, all chalking is done along the wrong side of the right part.

2. Then the parts are cut out taking into account the necessary seam allowances.

Because The chalking is applied to the wrong side of the right part, then the left part is placed wrong side down on the side of the board or copy paper covered with a layer of chalk.

4. Then use a tracing roller to follow the chalk lines marked on the right part.

When copying marking lines onto a symmetrical part, the copier wheel should be located exactly in the middle of the chalk line. Otherwise, distortion of the symmetrical part may occur.

As a result, prints are obtained on the left part in the form of a line consisting of points close to each other.

5. After this, remove the pins and, if necessary, clarify the transferred lines using a ruler and pattern.

It is important to note that the quality of the copy line depends on the copy roller and the pressure applied. Which means it’s time to talk about what types of copiers there are.

Types of copy rollers

You can come across several names for a copy roller - copier, copy wheel, and even cutter. But the name “cutter” is consonant with the word “to cut.” And we’re not going to cut them yet. Therefore, we will not use this name, so as not to mislead anyone.

Copy wheels come with serrated and smooth edges.

If the copier has very dull teeth or you press the cutter very hard, the line will be thick and blurry. And very sharp or damaged (bent, burred) teeth can damage thin fabric.

Also, the choice of copier depends on the pattern on the fabric. So, on fabric with small polka dots or with a very variegated small pattern, the line left by a serrated copier may simply not be visible.

But the copier itself cannot transfer marking lines to a symmetrical part. It “works” only in tandem with copy paper or a chalk board.

To be honest, I have never used carbon paper. Although no, there were several times when I studied machine embroidery. Therefore, I cannot say for sure whether there is a fundamental difference in stationery carbon paper and carbon paper for fabric. I daresay the only difference is size.

If you use carbon paper when translating marking lines, please share which one you use. I'm very interested in it myself.

But if, nevertheless, a stationery carbon copy is not suitable, and it is expensive to buy specialized carbon paper, I want to make you happy! You can make a very convenient analogue with your own hands - a chalk board.

And I have prepared detailed instructions for making a chalk board to help you. Share this article with your friends by simply clicking on any social button and download the instructions.

To prevent the underside of the left part from being stained with chalk or carbon copy paper, you must avoid pressing on the parts with your hands (palms, elbows), and do not lean on the part located on the chalk board. Otherwise, any pressure will be imprinted on the lower part.

You can also use this method to transfer a large appliqué design onto fabric. But it’s difficult to transfer an appliqué design made of small parts with a copy wheel – it’s a piece of jewelry.

To transfer an appliqué (or embroidery) design, place the base fabric right side down on a chalk board. On top, on the wrong side of the base, place tracing paper with a pattern. Just remember to turn the tracing paper over so the design is facing down, otherwise the image will end up as a mirror image. Secure the tracing paper with pins and trace the contours with a wheel.

This is how I transferred the appliqué design to my graduation dresses. Very comfortably!

And in conclusion, I suggest you watch an excellent video about using a copier to translate patterns.

As I already wrote, this method is very easy to use and quite accurate. If you want to use it, you will need to purchase a tracing wheel and fabric transfer paper or make a chalk board.

There are a lot of tools and accessories for sewing. Some make the seamstress’s manual work easier, while others increase the capabilities of the sewing machine. For example, a marking tool will allow you to accurately transfer a pattern onto fabric, and a special foot with a “wheel” will make it possible to sew high-quality leather clothes on a household sewing machine. Special tailor's scissors and a transparent ruler-template are simply an indispensable tool for the cutter and just like others sewing tools will make your work better and more professional.

A convenient and reliable sewing machine is a faithful assistant for many years. A sewing machine doesn't have to be the "latest" model. Even the most ordinary machine that performs straight and zigzag stitches is capable of a lot in skillful hands.
If you intend to occasionally sew only for yourself and your family, there is no need to purchase an expensive sewing machine with many stitches and operations. You are unlikely to ever need many of them. Moreover, almost any clothing can be repaired and sewn on an old manual sewing machine like Podolsk.

But if you decide to sew clothes “seriously and for a long time,” especially to order, then, of course, you need to purchase a modern sewing machine that is within your financial capabilities. But never forget that your success depends on your skill and how well you know how to use the machine, and not on how much it costs or how many types of decorative stitches it can perform.
Please read the instruction manual carefully and try to use all its features, take the time to understand how to use all its accessories and accessories.
Keep your sewing machine clean and lubricated, and it will work flawlessly. The shuttle mechanism especially needs cleaning and lubrication. From time to time, remove the needle plate and use a brush to clean the comb (rail) of the fabric movement mechanism and the shuttle device from dust and fibers. A well-oiled machine operates almost silently.

Success or failure in sewing clothes sometimes depends on the selection of needles for the sewing machine. The type of needle and its thickness must match the fabric and threads. The thinner the fabric, the smaller the needle number should be. The thinnest needles (No. 65) are used for sewing very thin silk and cotton fabrics. Products made from dress and suit fabrics are sewn with needles No. 90, from thick and coarse fabrics (denim) - No. 100-110.
With constant work, the needle tip experiences very heavy loads and sometimes becomes dull. A blow to the needle plate causes the tip of the needle to bend, which leads to stitch skipping and thread breakage, and puffs may appear on the fabric. The condition of the needle tip must be constantly monitored and dull needles must be replaced immediately.

There are four (main) types of needles:
Universal needles- for a wide variety of materials. Sizes (numbers) from 9/65 (the thinnest) to 18/110;
Rounded tip needles- for knitwear and stretchable materials. Sizes from 9/65 to 16/100;
Twin needles- to perform decorative stitching (such a needle produces two parallel lines on the front side of the product, and a zigzag is formed on the back side);
Needles for sewing leather They have a special tip shape in the form of a flat blade. They are used for working with leather, sewing products made of genuine leather or vinyl.
Ball point needles There are a number of other special needles for fabrics that stretch both transversely and longitudinally. Their tip has the shape of a ball, which allows you to sew a product from thick knitwear and elastic materials such as stretch without gaps.
Jeans needles They have a very fine point and are designed for thick cotton fabric, canvas and other dense fabrics.
Basting needles have two ears located one above the other. If you thread the thread through the top eye of the needle, gaps will appear in the stitching. Thus, you can get a basting and even a decorative finishing stitch. If you thread the thread into the lower eyelet, you will get a regular machine stitch.

If you want your product to look professional, you will need to buy a serger. Overlockers are divided into industrial and household.
A household overlocker differs from an industrial overlocker with lower engine power and lower speed. However, for household overlockers, manufacturers provide many additional functions. It can be used to sew fabrics of various quality and thickness, and use any thread, including those from ordinary small spools. Household overlockers are produced by such well-known companies as Singer, Juki, Elna, etc. They can be three-thread or four-thread, and some models can be easily converted to two-thread.

Tools and accessories for hand sewing

Selected depending on the type of handmade.
To baste fabrics, it is convenient to use “hat needles”, long needles with a round eye. This needle is convenient for stitching to form gathers.
Needles with a rounded point are used to join knitted fabrics. This needle gently pushes the loops apart and slides between them without piercing or tearing the fibers of the fabric.
Short sewing needles with a round eye are used for making small stitches on thick fabric or for quilting.
Wedge-shaped needles (triangular in cross-section) are used when working with skin.

Another important sewing tool is pins. They are used for cutting cut parts during the sewing process and make work easier and faster. Tailor's pins come in different lengths, thicknesses and have heads of different shapes and sizes.

Thimble Protects your finger from needle pricks when sewing by hand. The thimble should fit freely onto your finger, without squeezing it, but not slip off. Learn to use it by pressing the needle with the side of the thimble, not the bottom. The habit of working with a thimble develops quite quickly; it is enough to put it on and wear it for the whole day, without taking it off when doing any other household work. Eventually, you will stop feeling it on your finger as a foreign object disturbing you.

A sewing tool like threader It is a “loop” of very thin steel wire fixed in a flat plate. It is used to thread thread through the eye of a needle. This device helps not only to thread a sewing or machine needle quickly and without hassle, but also when you need to bring the thread to the wrong side of a product or remove ties in the fabric.

Box with wax for waxing threads is necessary for a variety of hand sewing jobs. After waxing, the thread does not get tangled or pulled into loops. The lid of this box has special slots through which the thread passes.

Marking tools for sewing

There are also special tools and devices for applying pattern contour lines and other marks to fabric.

Cutter (copy roller)- a wheel with a serrated edge on the handle, used for marking fabrics. The jagged edge of the wheel leaves a dotted line behind it. A wheel with a smooth edge (no teeth) is used for marking very thin airy fabrics. This roller leaves a continuous line. The double copy roller allows you to mark both the stitch line and the seam allowance at the same time. Its width can be adjusted, which allows you to mark cells and stripes.

Copy paper necessary for transferring cutting lines onto the fabric using a copy roller (cutter). You can use paper that matches the fabric, just so that the color of the lines does not blend into the background. You can use white carbon paper so that the lines are clearly visible. There are grades of copy paper that leave a mark and can be washed off with water. Working with carbon paper is acceptable only if the presence of marks on the reverse side of the product does not matter to you.

Allows you to create clear lines on fabric. The disadvantage of this tool is that chalk marks need to be removed after sewing the product, sometimes this is not easy to do. Instead of chalk, you can use a flat piece of high-quality soap (mostly white). The soap can be further sharpened with a knife and used to apply thin, clear lines to the fabric, which disappear when the product is ironed. To avoid unpleasant surprises, test the soap on a piece of fabric to see if it leaves stains on the fabric after ironing.

Also used for marking fabric special markers. There are inks that evaporate and disappear from the fabric 48 hours after the mark is applied, but most often they have to be removed with water. In all cases, marks made with a felt-tip pen must be removed before you begin ironing the area, otherwise the iron may set them on the fabric. In addition, before applying markings with a felt-tip pen to the main fabric, you should make sure that the felt-tip pen will not leave a mark on this fabric and that water when removing the markings will also not leave stains.

Measuring tools

Tools and accessories for cutting fabric

Curly handles are specially designed for cutting fabric; they are used not only by professional tailors. The angle of rotation of the blades allows you to cut the fabric without lifting it off the table. Handles of different sizes also have their own purposes. The large ring allows you to insert four fingers at once. It is advisable to select scissors according to the size of your hand. If you are left-handed, try to purchase scissors for left-handed cutting. The length of the blades can be different - from 18 to 30 cm. Such scissors must cut through eight layers of fabric right up to the very tip of the tip.

Serrated blade scissors(“zigzag”) make a jagged cut on the fabric. These scissors are used to trim facings and allowances on some fabrics so that they do not fray. High-quality cutting tools are not cheap, but if handled with care and care, they will last a lifetime. You need to protect them from falling, do not cut paper, foil, or wire with them. Your scissors should always be well sharpened. It is difficult to work with dull scissors, and besides, it can damage the fabric.

The cutting table should have a smooth, hard surface and a height of about 90 cm. The cutting board made of cardboard protects the surface of a regular table from damage. On such a board the fabric slips less. It is convenient to store when folded. It provides the necessary elasticity when working with the cutter.

Iron and ironing accessories

Must have a large amplitude of temperature control. It is advisable to carry out wet-heat treatment of fabric with an iron that has a reliable thermostat. To work with synthetic materials, it is important to have an iron that produces steam under all conditions, and not just at high heating temperatures. The non-metallic sole allows you to iron fabrics on the front side without the formation of lasses and scorched areas.

A special plate is installed on the sole of the iron. It is used for ironing the front side of fabric, even pile, without the formation of lasses and scorched areas. Fusible fabrics do not stick to it. Using a removable soleplate will modernize and extend the service life of your old iron.

Ironing board and a special stand (block). The ironing board should be upholstered with soft material, but at the same time be quite hard. In addition, it is advisable to have a tabletop ironing stand. It is convenient because it allows you to iron part of the product, while the rest of it lies on the table, and does not hang from the ironing board and does not become deformed during the ironing process.

It's useful to have several ironing pads, used in hard-to-reach places and special ironing pads. Read more in the article How to iron clothes correctly.
The oval-shaped pad is very convenient to use, covered with cotton fabric on one side and woolen fabric on the other. It is convenient to iron small, hard-to-reach areas using a small pad with two sharp ends. There are also other tools and accessories for sewing, and new ones are constantly appearing, which can be purchased in specialized stores.

Since time immemorial, tailors have been using chalk to make marks when cutting or trying on a product. I advise you to take regular school chalk without any wax, because on modern fabrics that have undergone special treatment, wax will leave indelible stains. However, even ordinary chalk hardens during use and becomes unusable. To prevent this from happening, insert a piece of chalk into a special holder. The lid of the holder has a protrusion for sharpening chalk.

Special tailor's chalk Available in the form of small rectangles in white, blue or red.

Copy roller

This wonderful instrument has been known for a long time, but until recently it was undeservedly forgotten. Copy roller allows you to easily and accurately trace the contours of patterns on fabric.

Its previous version had sharp edges that damaged the fabric. The new tool is designed in such a way that it does not damage even the most delicate tissues and at the same time allows for very precise marking through large sheets of special copy paper.

Of course, carbon paper, especially dark-colored paper, requires careful handling, otherwise permanent stains will remain on the fabric. Therefore, it is better to use white paper, and use dark paper only in cases where other colors are not noticeable. Transfer paper is always placed on the wrong side of the fabric.